The Aquatimer collection by IWC is celebrating its 30th birthday with the launch of a new model that the brand decided to clothe in an all-black livery. To achieve this, it devoted five years of R&D to developing a new material more resistant than a DLC-treated metal, the solution generally used in the watch industry for black cases. Ceratanium®, a titanium alloy featuring a ceramic surface, boasts the combined advantages of the two materials in terms of lightness, sturdiness as well as resistance to scratching and corrosion.
The functions of the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” are a fine match for its high-tech case. The flyback chronograph is combined with a digital perpetual calendar indicating the date and month with large numerals placed on either side of the hours and minutes counter. The disks are visible through the honeycomb grid that gives the dial a very technical look. The internal and external rotating bezels are a reminder that this imposing matt black 49mm timepiece belongs to the diver’s watch family
Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date- Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer”
Case : Ceratanium®, waterresistant to 100m, screw-lock crown, external and internal mechanical rotating bezels equipped with the IWC SafeDive system, cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal, sapphire back
Size : 49mm, 19.5mm thick
Movement : mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Caliber 89802, 28,800 vph, 68h power reserve
Functions : perpetual calendar, large double-digit display of the date and month, flyback chronograph, stop hours, minutes and seconds functions, small hacking seconds
Dial : black dial, black and red hands with luminescent elements
Though the contemporary Arnold & Son is currently owned by the Citizen Group and continues to be revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the heritage of precision timekeeping, progress in escapement technology, and Breguet’s influence can nevertheless be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton basically combines two motions, each using their particular barrel, gear train, escapement, and balance, united by a single winding system and a single centralized second hand. Both dials for house time and GMT are powered with their own dedicated motions, allowing each to be set independently via a dual crown at 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor apart, this also has a practical advantage in having the ability to place GMT time to the minute, which can be particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones offset by half an hour such as portions of India, Australia, and Canada.In comparison to the non-skeletonized variant of this Arnold & Son DBG we analyzed previously, this incarnation supposes some legibility in order to better show that beautifully symmetrical motion. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal glass is employed for each dial to help bring the numerals more into focus against the busy backdrop without completely obscuring it, which is a smart move. GMT time can also be differentiated through the dial’s use of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, versus the Arabic numerals and strong palms featured on the house time dial. Unlike the last version, the palms on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded rather than blued, which can be visually a wonderful complement to the exposed equilibrium wheels but also makes them difficult to view at a glance.
Strap : rubber, patented IWC interchangeable strap system
50-piece limited edition