WORLDTEMPUS – 20 December 2012
The famous watch exhibition ViennaTime took place at Museum of Applied Arts from the 16th to 18th of November, where the watch industry presented its novelties to a large audience of connoisseurs. Thousands of watch lovers visited the exhibition and voted for the “Watch of the Year” in 6 different categories.
The awards were presented during the traditional Watch Gala at the “Aula der Wissenschaften” in Vienna on the 11th of December 2012. The event was attended by distinguished high profile guests and representatives of the prestigious brands being awarded.
The Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton comes at a 42mm 5N red gold case, and it is as exquisitely crafted as the movement. It’s stepped, tapering from top to bottom. The dial part, that’s the broadest section, additionally features an extra-large sapphire glass to showcase that the grade A&S8220 in all its glory. The base of the case is made narrower to fit closely on the wrist.The Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton watch will be limited to just 50 pieces, and every watch will include a hand-stitched brownish or black alligator leather strap with a matching 5N red gold buckle with all the Arnold & Son emblem. Arnold & Son creates some beautiful moon phase watches, also there is a new piece from the collection with a fresh spin. Having a second three-dimensional moon, the Arnold & Son HM Dual Hemisphere Perpetual Moon watch maintains the visual allure of previous versions but affords the wearer a view of the moon out of both the northern and southern hemispheres. The tasteful gold constellations together with the stunning blue guilloché dial make certain this bit fits in just perfectly with the remainder of the line and the brand as a whole.Measuring in at 42mm, the Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon instance is supplied at 18 karat red gold, although perhaps in the future a stainless steel variant will be offered. Whatever the case, the golden with the deep azure guilloché dial is just simply beautiful. The three-dimensional moons themselves are 11.2mm, and are linked with the golden stars resulting in an absolutely mesmerizing appearance. Regal is the word to describe this particular dialup, and Arnold & Son have produced a piece that can make fans completely salivate.
Winners of the “Best Luxury Ladies’ Watch” category:
1st: Arnold & Son – HMS Lady
2nd: Hermès – Arceau Ecuyère
3rd: Zenith – Star Moonphase
The case is 34 mm in diameter and houses a hand-wound movement which is only 2.5 mm thick. The HMS Lady is a perfect reflection of traditional classical elegance in the Arnold & Son’s Royal Collection. The Royal Collection is inspired by the timepieces made during the earlier part of John Arnold’s life for King George III and the royal court. The HMS Lady in the Arnold & Son Royal Collection is an eloquent expression of elegance and sophistication in the inimitable English style.
Do you like for me to remind you what the greatest issue is on watches with completely skeletonized dials and moves? It’s that you could often see right through to your own arm and skin hair. Yes, these sexy-looking timepieces using skeletonized moves and dials can appear amazing in concept (and pictured independently), but place them onto your wrist at a real world situation and only those individuals with the most beautiful of wrists will not have a reason to complain in any way. This is actually a common “thing” which watch fans can and do complain about.So, to cure this situation and react to the concern, Arnold & Son has done a small experimentation with this new variant of the Time Pyramid watch in steel in the model reference 1TPAS. S01A.C124S “Translucent Back” variant. This model will even outright replace the original version of this Arnold & Son Time Pyramid in steel with the traditionally translucent front and rear crystal.Arnold & Son did an wonderful job for this watch but gave it no distinctive name – that was fairly lazy. “Time Pyramid Translucent Back” is the title that I am giving it whereas the closest entity Arnold & Son gets to a exceptional name (besides the mention number) is “Time Pyramid Translucent-Grey Coated Sapphire Case Back.” Ugh… Anyways, even without a proper title, the watch remains exactly what you want because the caseback is actually just one-way mirror substance.
The A&S1101 calibre mechanical movement measures an ultra-slim 2.5 mm in thickness. The golden treated movement has blued screws together with exquisite Haute Horlogerie finishing featuring hand-engraved bridges with elegant English-style floral motif. The breathtaking richness of detail in the hand-engraved bridges creates a spectacular illusion of depth that contrasts starkly with the ultra-slim case. All in all, a perfect addition to the Arnold & Son Royal Collection.
Main technical characteristics:
Arnold & Son mechanical movement, hand-wound, 17 jewels,
diameter 23.7 mm, thickness 2.5 mm, power reserve 42 h,
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Movement decoration: 18-carat rose gold case:
golden treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-engraved bridges
with English-style floral motif, blued screws
Diamonds: 76, 0.685 ct, VVs
Dial colour: cream
Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 34 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating
on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m
Skeletonizing a watch is not an simple feat. And it’s doubly difficult for an ultra-thin motion, mainly because the movement is already so sparse that removing any more substance is bound to influence structural rigidity. Because of this, the A&S8200 calibre in the Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton watch needed to be thoroughly redesigned and re-engineered. The result is that the A&S8220 calibre, which steps 3.3mm thick. The additional thickness, according to Arnold & Son, is imperative to guarantee rigidity since they hunted to skeletonized the movement. However, let’s face it, 3.3mm for a tourbillon movement with two barrels and a power reserve of 90 hours is badly impressive.The new A&S8220 calibre boasts some significant revisions. As an example, the main plate has been greatly modified to show as much as possible of the internal workings. But perhaps what’s visible to owners is the tourbillon cage was completely reworked to show off more of this mechanism when keeping the three-dimensional layout which has become a signature of the sooner Arnold & Son UTTE watch. In addition, the tourbillon cage is relatively large as compared to the movement. It measures 14mm across, while the motion itself is 32mm. This implies it is the single most dominating element of the dialup, and in addition to that is the fact that the cage is fully hand-polished and chamfered, which makes it a real visual treat for owners.And as you would anticipate, the A&S8220 calibre can also be treated to the finest haute horlogerie completing: The main plate and bridges are constructed using nickel silver and completed with C?tes de Genève rayonnantes; The borders will also be polished and chamfered; The steel components, components, and ratchets are all satin-finished using their edges polished and chamfered; The screws have bevelled and polished heads, and ultimately, the stones are placed in polished countersinks; exploring of the time is performed off a sapphire disc with printed numerals at 12 o’clock; The hour and minute hands are gold and feature white lacquered hints.
Strap: hand-stitched honey or red alligator leather
Limited edition: 100 pieces
References : 1PMMP.W01A.C114A 18-carat rose gold case, diamonds, honey leather